Once a year, Beaufort does something it does the other 364 days: it keeps its prettiest doors locked. For one October weekend — the 16th through the 18th this year — the Historic Beaufort Foundation talks gracious homeowners into unlocking them, and you get to walk through. Fifty-two years running, and it still sells out.
This isn't a look-from-the-sidewalk situation. These are private homes and gardens inside the National Historic Landmark District — three centuries of Lowcountry architecture — opened up with docents who actually know the stories. And this year's theme is the big one: Beaufort Transformed, the Civil War and the era of Reconstruction, told through the houses and churches that lived it.
The weekend opens Friday evening with a reception and discussion led by two acclaimed Southern historians — Dr. John McCardell and Dr. Steve Wise — on the Civil War and Reconstruction in Beaufort. The setting: the Dr. Joseph Johnson House, better known as The Castle (circa 1861), the home of Dave and Nancy Russell. It's a members-only evening, $200, 5:30 to 7:30, and space is limited. If you've ever wanted your history lesson inside a house that looks like that, this is the night.
Saturday is the centerpiece: the Beaufort Transformed walking tour, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., through homes and churches tied to the Civil War and Reconstruction. When federal troops captured Beaufort in November 1861, these buildings became headquarters, hospitals, and quarters — you'll walk through the actual rooms where that happened.
The headliner stop is the McKee-Smalls House, once owned by Robert Smalls — the Civil War hero who commandeered a Confederate ship to freedom and went on to serve in the U.S. Congress. That's not a plaque on a wall. That's standing in his house. Tickets are $75 for members, $85 for non-members.
Sunday moves to St. Helena Island for the Lowcountry Brunch & Tour at Frogmore Manor (circa 1810), the home of Bill and Caroline Hatcher. Seventy-two acres, a tabby barn from around 1810, and a story that stops you cold: in 1867–68 this plantation was purchased by Laura Towne and Ellen Murray, the Northern missionaries who founded Penn School — one of the nation's first schools for formerly enslaved people. Midday, historians Dr. Larry Rowland and Dr. Mollie Barnes dig into St. Helena's early history and the Penn School founders.
Two seatings — 9 to 11 a.m. and noon to 2 p.m. — at $175 for members, $200 for non-members. Bundle Saturday and Sunday and take 10% off. That's the move if you're doing the full weekend, which you should be.
Beaufort is twenty-some minutes from the Fripp gate, and this is the single best weekend of the year to remember why we all ended up down here. Get in the car.